Saffron (kesar): how to spot real saffron and how much to use

Saffron (kesar in Hindi, "szafran" in Polish) is the dried stigmas of the saffron crocus, Crocus sativus. Each flower has only three red threads, picked by hand, which is why saffron is sold by the gram. It gives food a golden colour and a honey-and-hay aroma, and in Indian cooking it goes into biryani, kheer and sweets.

Why saffron is so expensive

Saffron is one of the most expensive spices in the world. The reason is simple: the crocus flowers bloom briefly, the stigmas are picked by hand, and one gram needs a great many flowers. That is why saffron prices are usually given per gram. One gram goes a long way, because a dish needs only a pinch of threads.

Most of the world's saffron comes from Iran. It is also grown in Spain, in Kashmir in India and in Afghanistan, among other places. In Polish shops you will often see Iranian saffron ("szafran irański").

How to spot real saffron

Saffron is often faked. Sellers pass off dyed corn silk, safflower petals (sometimes called "Mexican saffron") or a mixture with turmeric. A few simple tests:

1. The threads. A real thread is dark red and thin, and widens at one end like a small trumpet. The threads are uneven, each a little different. Very even, thin fibres or petals are a bad sign.
2. The water test. Drop 2–3 threads into a glass of warm water. Real saffron slowly, over several minutes, colours the water golden yellow, and the threads stay red. A fake often releases colour at once, sometimes red, and fades.
3. Smell. Real saffron smells strong: of honey, hay, a little metallic. No smell means the spice is old or fake.
4. Taste. A thread on your tongue tastes slightly bitter, not sweet.
5. Ground saffron. This is the easiest to fake, because you cannot see the threads. Buy saffron as whole threads and grind it yourself.

Iranian saffron grades

Packs of Iranian saffron carry several grade names:

• Sargol: only the red tips of the stigmas, with no yellow part. Very aromatic.
• Negin: also only red stigmas, but with longer, thicker threads.
• Pushal: red stigmas with a small part of the yellow or white base.

The yellow part of the thread does not colour and has almost no smell. The more pure red, the stronger the saffron.

How much saffron to use and how

Do not throw saffron dry into the pan. First draw out its colour and aroma.

1. Measure a pinch, that is a dozen or so threads. That is enough for a pot of rice or dessert for 4 people.
2. Crush the threads lightly in a mortar or between your fingers.
3. Pour over 2–3 tablespoons of warm milk or water and leave for 10–20 minutes.
4. Add the liquid, threads and all, towards the end of cooking.

Too much saffron gives a bitter, metallic taste, so start with a small amount.

Where to use saffron:

• Biryani: saffron milk is poured over the basmati rice before it steams, so some grains turn golden.
• Kheer and other milk desserts: saffron with cardamom is a classic pairing.
• Kulfi, lassi, sweets: for example kesar peda.
• Paella, risotto alla milanese, bouillabaisse in European cooking.
• Saffron tea: a few threads in hot water or in kahwa.

A note on the name: "kesar" on a pack of mango (for example kesar mango pulp) means a mango variety, not saffron.

How to store saffron

Keep saffron in an airtight pack, away from light, heat and damp. Do not keep it above the hob. Well-stored saffron keeps its aroma for a long time, but it fades with time, so do not buy years' worth.

Where to buy saffron

Iranian saffron threads are on the Persico Iranian saffron 1 g page. For biryani, a ready biryani masala helps, and for dessert a kheer mix with cardamom. Little India has shops in Warsaw, Kraków, Wrocław and Gdańsk and ships online orders.